If you’ve ever watched your ball start down the fairway only to curve dramatically right into the trees (or left for you lefties), you know exactly how frustrating a slice can be. Here’s the thing – you’re not alone. The slice is far and away the most common miss in amateur golf, affecting an estimated 70% of recreational players. I’ve spent years battling my own slice, and I’ve helped countless golfers at the range work through theirs. The good news? A slice isn’t some mysterious curse. It’s a physics problem with clear causes and, more importantly, clear solutions. In this guide, I’ll walk you through seven proven methods that actually work to fix your slice. Not quick fixes that fall apart on the course, but fundamental changes that lead to lasting improvement. Let’s get that ball flying straight – or even adding a nice little draw.

What Actually Causes a Slice?

Before we dive into the fixes, let’s understand what’s happening when you slice the ball. It all comes down to the relationship between two things: club face angle and swing path. A slice occurs when:

• Your club face is open relative to your swing path at impact
• Your swing path is typically moving outside-to-inside (across the ball)

Think of it like this: if you swipe across a tennis ball with topspin, it curves. In golf, an open face combined with an out-to-in path puts sidespin on the ball, causing that banana curve we all hate. Here’s what makes it tricky – the ball starts where the face points and curves away from the path. So that slice that starts left and curves right? Your face was pointing left of target (closed to target but open to path), and your path was even further left. Understanding this face-path relationship is crucial because different fixes address different parts of the equation. Some close the face, some change the path, and some do both. Now let’s get into the solutions.

Method 1: Fix Your Grip (Go Stronger)

The grip is the only connection you have to the club, and it’s often the primary culprit behind a slice. Most slicers have a grip that’s too “weak” – meaning their hands are rotated too far to the left on the club (for right-handed players).

How to Check Your Current Grip

Look down at your left hand on the club. How many knuckles can you see? If you can only see one knuckle, your grip is weak and almost certainly contributing to your slice.

The Strong Grip Fix

Step 1: Place the club in your fingers (not your palm) of your left hand, running diagonally from the base of your pinky to the middle of your index finger. Step 2: Close your hand and rotate it clockwise until you can see 2.5 to 3 knuckles when you look down. Step 3: The “V” formed by your thumb and index finger should point toward your right shoulder. Step 4: Place your right hand on the club with the “V” also pointing toward your right shoulder. Your right palm should face the target.

The Grip Pressure Drill

Many slicers also grip too tightly, which restricts wrist hinge and rotation. Try this:

1. On a scale of 1-10, you should grip the club at about a 4
2. Practice swinging while holding the club just tight enough that it won’t fly out of your hands
3. Pay attention to whether your forearms feel tense – they shouldn’t

A stronger grip naturally helps the club face close through impact. It might feel strange at first, but stick with it for at least a bucket of balls before judging.

Method 2: Ball Position Adjustment

Where you place the ball in your stance has a massive effect on where you make contact in your swing arc – and therefore your club face angle at impact. Slicers often play the ball too far forward in their stance. This means they’re catching the ball after the club has already started moving left (for right-handers), exacerbating the out-to-in path.

The Correct Ball Position

• Driver: Off your left heel (or just inside it)
• Fairway woods and hybrids: One ball width back from the driver position
• Long irons (4-6): Two ball widths back
• Mid irons (7-8): Center of stance
• Short irons and wedges: Just forward of center

The Alignment Stick Drill

1. Lay an alignment stick on the ground parallel to your target line
2. Place a second stick perpendicular to the first, pointing at the ball
3. Take your stance and check where the ball sits relative to your feet
4. Hit 10-15 shots focusing on consistent ball position
5. Move the ball slightly back if you’re still slicing, slightly forward if you start hooking

This simple positioning change can have immediate effects. Many golfers see improvement within a few swings.

Method 3: Swing Path Drills (Inside-Out)

This is where the real work happens. Changing your swing path from outside-in to inside-out is the most powerful slice fix, but it also takes the most practice.

The Headcover Gate Drill

This is my favorite drill for path correction:

1. Place your ball on a tee
2. Set a headcover about 6 inches behind the ball and 2 inches outside the target line
3. Set another headcover about 6 inches in front of the ball and 2 inches inside the target line
4. Your goal is to swing without hitting either headcover
5. This forces an inside-out path

Start with half swings at 50% speed. If you hit the back headcover, your takeaway is too inside. If you hit the front headcover, you’re still coming over the top.

The Right Pocket Drill

This feel-based drill helps ingrain the correct path:

1. On your downswing, feel like you’re dropping your hands straight down toward your right pocket
2. This shallows the club and promotes an inside approach
3. Imagine you’re swinging out toward right field (for right-handers)

The Towel Under the Arm Drill

1. Tuck a small towel or glove under your right armpit
2. Make swings without letting it drop until well after impact
3. This keeps your right elbow connected to your body, preventing the over-the-top move

Practice these drills religiously. The swing path change might feel like you’re going to hit the ball way right at first – that’s normal and actually a good sign.

Method 4: Trail Elbow Position

Your right elbow (for right-handed golfers) plays a crucial role in determining your swing path. Most slicers let their right elbow fly away from their body, which almost guarantees an over-the-top move.

The Ideal Trail Elbow Position

At the top of your backswing, your right elbow should:

• Point toward the ground, not behind you
• Stay relatively close to your torso
• Form roughly a 90-degree angle

The Wall Drill

1. Stand with your back about a foot from a wall
2. Take your backswing
3. Your right elbow should NOT touch the wall
4. If it does, you’re getting too disconnected

The Elbow Crease Drill

1. At address, note that the crease of your right elbow points somewhat toward the target
2. Throughout the backswing, try to maintain that relationship
3. This prevents the elbow from “flying” and keeps your swing on plane

Feel: Elbow in Front of Hip

On the downswing, feel like your right elbow is working down in front of your right hip. This slots the club on an inside path. Many teaching pros describe this as getting the elbow “in the slot.” A connected trail elbow is one of the most underrated slice fixes. It doesn’t require wholesale swing changes – just awareness and practice.

Method 5: Hip Rotation Timing

Here’s a truth that surprises many golfers: a slice often starts with the lower body, not the hands or arms. Specifically, it comes from early hip rotation or lack of hip rotation.

The Hip Rotation Problem

When your hips open too quickly in the downswing (spin out), your arms and club get left behind. This pushes the club outside, creating that slice-inducing out-to-in path. Conversely, if your hips don’t rotate enough, your arms have to do all the work, often resulting in a flip that opens the face.

The Step Drill

This drill trains proper sequencing:

1. Take your backswing as normal
2. As you start down, lift your front foot and step toward the target
3. This forces your lower body to lead and your arms to follow
4. After 20-30 reps, return to normal swings and try to recreate the feeling

The Pump Drill

1. Take your backswing
2. Start down until your hands reach hip height
3. Stop and return to the top
4. Repeat this “pump” two times
5. On the third time, complete the swing

This drill builds awareness of where your body is during transition. You’ll feel when your hips are firing correctly versus spinning out.

The Feel: Clear the Left Hip

Imagine your left hip is being pulled backward by a string attached to it. This creates space for your hands to drop inside. The belt buckle should face left of target at impact, but the key is when and how fast you rotate.

Method 6: Alignment Check

Sometimes the slice fix has nothing to do with your swing – it’s all about where you’re aiming. Here’s a common scenario: A golfer slices the ball right. To compensate, they start aiming further left. But this actually makes the slice worse because the more left you aim, the more outside-to-inside your path becomes relative to your body.

The Alignment Reality Check

Go to the range with a friend or set up your phone to record from behind:

1. Pick a specific target
2. Take your stance as you normally would
3. Lay a club across your toes
4. Have your friend (or check the video) see where that club is pointing

You might be shocked. Many golfers who think they’re aimed at the target are actually aimed 20-30 yards left.

The Station Drill

1. Lay one alignment stick on the ground pointing at your target (this is your target line)
2. Lay a second stick parallel to it, just outside your toes (this is your body line)
3. These should be parallel – like railroad tracks
4. Hit shots while checking your alignment before every swing

Feet, Hips, and Shoulders

Remember, alignment isn’t just about your feet. Check that your:

• Feet are parallel to target line
• Hips are parallel to target line
• Shoulders are parallel to target line (this one gets people most)

Many slicers have open shoulders at address, which pre-programs an out-to-in path. Square up, and the slice often fixes itself.

Method 7: Equipment Check

I’ve saved this for last because I believe swing fixes should come first. However, the wrong equipment absolutely can contribute to a slice – and the right equipment can provide some forgiveness while you’re working on your swing.

Driver Loft

Here’s counterintuitive advice: if you slice, you probably need more loft, not less. Many amateur golfers play drivers with 9 or 9.5 degrees of loft because they think it looks more impressive. But:

• Lower loft = more sidespin = bigger slice
• Higher loft (10.5°, 12°) = less sidespin = straighter shots

The ball also launches higher with more loft, and for most amateur swing speeds, this results in more distance, not less.

Shaft Flex

A shaft that’s too stiff for your swing speed can contribute to a slice. When the shaft doesn’t flex enough, the club face tends to be open at impact. Consider:

• If you swing under 85 mph, a regular or senior flex is appropriate
• 85-95 mph, regular or stiff
• 95-105 mph, stiff
• Over 105 mph, extra stiff

Get fitted if possible, but at minimum, don’t buy a shaft because it sounds more impressive.

Draw-Bias Drivers

Many manufacturers offer “draw” versions of their drivers. These have:

• Weight positioned toward the heel
• Slightly closed face angles
• Design features that promote face closure

These aren’t a cure-all, but they can help reduce slice spin while you work on your swing mechanics.

Offset Irons

Game-improvement irons often feature offset – where the club face sits slightly behind the hosel. This gives the face more time to close before impact. If you’re playing blades or players’ irons while fighting a slice, consider switching to something more forgiving.

Common Mistakes When Fixing a Slice

Fixing a slice is a process, and there are some common pitfalls to avoid:

Trying to Fix Everything at Once

Pick one method from this guide and commit to it for at least 2-3 range sessions before adding another. Trying to change your grip, path, and hip rotation simultaneously is a recipe for confusion.

Aiming Further Left

As mentioned earlier, this makes the problem worse. Fix your aim, don’t compensate for bad aim with worse aim.

Swinging Harder

When the slice appears, many golfers instinctively swing harder, thinking more power will straighten the ball. Wrong. Swinging harder typically makes your sequencing worse and increases the slice. Instead, swing at 75% and focus on solid contact.

Giving Up Too Soon

Swing changes feel awkward. A new grip will feel terrible for a while. Swinging inside-out will feel like you’re going to shank it into the woods. Trust the process and give changes time to take hold.

Only Practicing on the Range

The range is for building new habits, but they need to transfer to the course. Play practice rounds where your only goal is implementing your new changes, regardless of score.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to fix a slice?

With focused practice, most golfers see improvement within 2-4 weeks. However, making the change permanent and automatic under pressure can take several months. Be patient and consistent.

Should I fix my grip or my swing path first?

Start with the grip. It’s the easiest change to make and often provides immediate improvement. Once your grip is solid, work on path changes.

Can a slice become a hook if I overcorrect?

Yes, and that’s actually a good sign! It means you’ve successfully learned to close the face and swing inside-out. From there, it’s easier to find a neutral ball flight than it was to fix the slice.

Is it better to fix my slice or play a fade?

A controlled fade is a perfectly viable shot shape. The issue is that most slices aren’t controlled – they’re big, distance-robbing curves. If you can turn your slice into a consistent 5-10 yard fade, that’s a legitimate strategy.

Do pros ever slice the ball?

Rarely unintentionally, but yes. Even pros miss fairways with big curves when their timing is off. The difference is their slice might be 20 yards offline; an amateur’s might be 50+.

Will a new driver fix my slice?

It can help manage the symptoms, but a new driver won’t fix the underlying swing issues. Get your swing sorted first, then get fitted for equipment that complements your improved mechanics.

Conclusion

Fixing a slice isn’t about finding one magic move – it’s about understanding what’s happening (open face + out-to-in path) and systematically addressing the causes. Start with your grip, check your alignment, and then progress to the more complex swing path work. Remember, every golfer who now hits beautiful draws once struggled with a slice. It’s a rite of passage, and coming out the other side will make you a better, more complete golfer. Pick one fix from this guide and commit to it. Hit 100 balls with that single focus before adding anything else. Your slice didn’t develop overnight, and it won’t disappear overnight either. But with patience and purposeful practice, that frustrating curve will become a distant memory – replaced by the satisfaction of watching your ball split the fairway. Now get to the range and start straightening those drives. You’ve got this.