Stand 15 yards from the green with a tricky lie, and you’ll face one of golf’s most common dilemmas: should you chip or pitch? This decision confuses golfers at every level, from weekend warriors to seasoned players. The truth is, understanding the difference between chipping and pitching—and knowing exactly when to use each shot—can dramatically lower your scores and transform your short game from a weakness into a weapon.

Many golfers use these terms interchangeably, treating them as the same shot with different names. That’s a costly mistake. Chips and pitches are fundamentally different techniques designed for specific situations. Master both, and you’ll have the versatility to handle any greenside scenario the course throws at you.

Defining the Chip Shot: Low and Running

A chip shot is a low-trajectory shot that spends more time rolling on the ground than flying through the air. Think of it as an extended putt that happens to get airborne briefly. The ball pops up just enough to clear the fringe or any rough between you and the green, then releases and rolls toward the hole like a putt.

Key characteristics of a chip shot:

• Flight-to-roll ratio: Approximately 1:3 or 1:4 (one part air, three to four parts roll)
• Ball position: Back of stance, near the trailing foot
• Weight distribution: 60-70% on the lead foot throughout the swing
• Wrist action: Minimal to none—arms and shoulders control the motion
• Swing length: Short backswing with minimal follow-through
• Landing spot: Just onto the green, allowing maximum roll

The chip shot technique resembles a putting stroke with slightly more loft. Your hands stay ahead of the clubhead through impact, creating a descending blow that produces consistent contact and predictable roll. The motion comes from your shoulders rocking while your wrists remain firm—almost like a pendulum.

Defining the Pitch Shot: High and Stopping

A pitch shot is a higher-trajectory shot that carries most of its distance in the air and stops relatively quickly upon landing. This shot generates more spin and height, allowing the ball to land softly on the green with minimal roll-out. When you need to carry a bunker, fly over a mound, or stop the ball near a tight pin, the pitch is your go-to option.

Key characteristics of a pitch shot:

• Flight-to-roll ratio: Approximately 2:1 or 3:1 (more air than roll)
• Ball position: Center of stance or slightly forward
• Weight distribution: More balanced, around 55% on the lead foot
• Wrist action: Controlled wrist hinge on the backswing, released through impact
• Swing length: Longer backswing with fuller follow-through
• Landing spot: Closer to the target, expecting less roll

The pitch requires a different athletic motion than the chip. You’ll use more wrist hinge to create the loft and speed needed for height. The clubhead accelerates through the ball with the bounce of the club interacting with the turf, sliding under the ball rather than digging. This produces the spin and soft landing that makes pitch shots so effective around the green.

When to Chip: Criteria and Situations

The chip shot should be your default choice whenever conditions allow. It’s a lower-risk shot with a smaller swing, which means fewer things can go wrong. Here’s when chipping is the smart play:

Ideal conditions for chipping:

• Clear path to the hole: No bunkers, deep rough, or obstacles between you and the green
• Firm, fast greens: Rolling the ball gives you better distance control than landing it on a slick surface
• Plenty of green to work with: The more room between your landing spot and the pin, the better for chips
• Tight lies or firm turf: Chips are easier to execute from tight lies where there’s no cushion under the ball
• Downhill or fast slopes: A running shot tracks better on slopes than a ball dropping from height
• Windy conditions: Low shots aren’t affected by wind like high-flying pitches
• Pressure situations: When nerves are high, the simpler chip motion reduces the chance of a costly mistake

Specific chipping scenarios:

• You’re just off the fringe with 30 feet to the hole and nothing but smooth green ahead
• The pin is at the back of a long green and you need maximum roll
• You’re playing in the morning when greens are still damp and receptive
• Your lie is bare or sitting down slightly, making clean contact critical
• The green slopes away from you, and you need the ball to chase toward the hole

Phil Mickelson famously said he’d rather have a poor lie for a chip than a good lie for a pitch. That’s because the reduced variables in chipping make it inherently more reliable. Trust the technique and let the ball roll.

When to Pitch: Criteria and Situations

When obstacles stand between you and the green, or when you need the ball to stop quickly, the pitch shot becomes essential. Here’s when you should commit to pitching:

Ideal conditions for pitching:

• Hazards to carry: Bunkers, water, or deep rough guard the green entrance
• Elevated greens: You need height to land the ball on the putting surface
• Short-sided pins: Little green between the edge and the hole requires a soft landing
• Soft or slow greens: The ball will check and hold better on receptive surfaces
• Fluffy lies: Ball sitting up in light rough is perfect for sliding the club under it
• Uphill slopes: Height helps the ball land softly on uphill sections
• Pin positions tucked behind bunkers or mounds: You must fly the ball to the target

Specific pitching scenarios:

• A bunker sits between you and a front pin with only 10 feet of green
• You’ve short-sided yourself and need to stop the ball within a few feet of landing
• The green is severely sloped away from you, requiring a high shot to hold
• Your ball is sitting up nicely in the first cut of rough
• You’re at 30-50 yards out—too far for a chip, too short for a full swing

The pitch shot gives you control when the situation demands precision over simplicity. Yes, there’s more that can go wrong, but when you need height and spin, no other shot will do.

The Bump and Run Option

Before leaving shot selection, consider the bump and run—a hybrid approach that deserves its own category. This shot uses a less-lofted club (like a 7 or 8 iron) to produce an even lower trajectory than a standard chip, with maximum roll.

The bump and run shines in these situations:

• Links-style courses: Firm, fast conditions with minimal rough around greens
• Long approach shots to back pins: When you have 40+ feet to the hole
• Into the wind: Keeping the ball low eliminates wind as a factor
• Severely sloped greens: Rolling with the contours is easier than landing and stopping
• When your confidence in wedge play is low: The simpler motion helps reduce errors

Execute the bump and run like a chip, but with a longer club. Play the ball back in your stance, keep your hands forward, and make a putting-style stroke. The ball will hop onto the green and roll out like a putt, often tracking better than a lofted shot on undulating surfaces.

Club Selection for Each Shot Type

Choosing the right club is half the battle in short game success. Here’s how to match your club to your intended shot:

For chip shots:

• 7-iron to 9-iron: Maximum roll, minimal air time—ideal for lots of green to work with
• Pitching wedge (PW): Versatile middle ground; roughly equal air and roll
• Gap wedge (50-52°): Slightly more loft when you need a softer landing but still want roll

For pitch shots:

• Sand wedge (54-56°): Standard pitching club; good height and spin
• Lob wedge (58-60°): Maximum height and stopping power; requires precise execution
• Gap wedge: Lower pitch trajectory when you want some roll-out

For bump and run:

• 6-iron to 8-iron: Keeps the ball very low with significant roll
• Hybrid: Some players use hybrids from the fringe for an ultra-low, putting-like result

A useful rule of thumb: the amount of green between your landing spot and the hole should dictate your club. More green equals less loft. Less green equals more loft. Simple, but effective.

Decision-Making Framework on the Course

When you reach your ball near the green, follow this simple decision framework to choose the right shot every time:

Step 1: Assess the obstacles

Look between your ball and the hole. Is there anything you must carry—bunkers, rough, mounds, water? If yes, you need a pitch shot. If the path is clear, proceed to step 2.

Step 2: Evaluate the green space

How much green is between the edge and the pin? If you have plenty of room (15+ feet), a chip or bump and run works well. If the pin is tight to the edge (under 10 feet), consider pitching to stop the ball quickly.

Step 3: Check your lie

Is the ball sitting up, down, or on a tight lie? Fluffy lies favor pitching. Tight lies and bare ground favor chipping. Poor lies almost always favor the safer chip shot.

Step 4: Consider the conditions

Factor in green speed, slope direction, wind, and firmness. Fast greens reward chips that land and roll. Soft greens hold pitch shots better.

Step 5: Commit to your choice

Once you’ve decided, commit fully. Doubt leads to deceleration, and deceleration ruins short game shots. Pick your shot, visualize the ball’s path, and execute with confidence.

The quick test: “Can I putt it?” If you’re close enough to the green and the path is clear, consider using your putter—even from off the green. If putting isn’t viable, ask “Can I chip it?” Only when chipping won’t work should you default to pitching.

Practice Drills for Both Shots

Developing touch and consistency around the green requires purposeful practice. Here are effective drills for both chips and pitches:

Chipping drills:

The Ladder Drill: Place tees at 10, 20, and 30 feet from your position. Chip three balls to each distance, focusing on consistent landing spots. This builds distance control through roll.

The One-Club Challenge: Using only your pitching wedge, chip to various holes and lies for 20 minutes. Learning how one club reacts in different situations deepens your feel.

Coin Landing: Place a coin on the green as your landing spot. Chip balls trying to land directly on the coin. This sharpens your precision and trains your eye to pick a specific target.

The Gate Drill: Set two tees just wider than your clubhead a few inches behind the ball. Chip without hitting the tees to groove a consistent path and prevent flipping.

Pitching drills:

Clock Face Distance Control: Hit pitches with backswing lengths at 7 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 10 o’clock. Note how far each swing length carries the ball with different wedges. This creates a reliable yardage system.

Towel Landing: Lay a towel on the green and practice landing pitch shots on it from 20-40 yards. Move the towel closer or farther to vary the challenge. This builds carry distance accuracy.

High-Low Challenge: Hit alternating high and low pitch shots to the same target. This develops versatility and teaches you how grip position, ball position, and swing plane affect trajectory.

Worst Lie Practice: Deliberately practice from bad lies—tight dirt, deep rough, downhill slopes. Competence from tough lies gives you confidence on the course when you find trouble.

Spend at least 30 minutes per week on short game practice. Most golfers under-practice this area despite it accounting for roughly 60% of their strokes. Dedicated short game work is the fastest path to lower scores.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the main difference between a chip and a pitch?

The primary difference is trajectory and roll. A chip shot flies low and rolls more than it carries, while a pitch shot flies high and stops quickly with minimal roll. Chips use less wrist action and a shorter swing; pitches require wrist hinge and a fuller motion.

Which shot should beginners focus on first?

Beginners should master the chip shot first. It’s a simpler motion with fewer moving parts, making it easier to execute consistently. Once comfortable with chipping, add pitch shots to expand your greenside options.

Can I use the same club for both shots?

Yes, many players use a single wedge (like a 54° sand wedge) for both chips and pitches by adjusting their technique. However, varying your club selection gives you more control over trajectory and roll, making your short game more precise.

Why do I skull chip shots?

Skulling (hitting the ball thin) usually happens when you try to help the ball up by scooping. Keep your weight forward, hands ahead of the clubhead, and make a descending strike. Trust the club’s loft to get the ball airborne.

How do I control distance on pitch shots?

Distance control comes from swing length, not swing speed. Practice different backswing positions (7 o’clock, 9 o’clock, etc.) and note how far each produces with your wedges. Keep your tempo consistent and let the length of your swing determine distance.

Should I use my lob wedge for chipping?

Generally, no. Lob wedges have too much loft for standard chips and make it harder to produce consistent roll. Save the lob wedge for pitch shots that need maximum height and spin. Use your pitching wedge or 9-iron for most chips.

Final Thoughts

Understanding when to chip versus when to pitch isn’t just about knowing the technical differences—it’s about reading the situation in front of you and making smart decisions. The best short game players aren’t necessarily those with the most natural talent; they’re the ones who consistently pick the right shot for each scenario.

Follow the golden rule: when in doubt, choose the simpler shot. The chip is safer, more consistent, and eliminates many of the variables that cause short game disasters. Save the pitch for when you truly need height and stopping power.

Practice both shots regularly, develop your personal yardage system, and trust your decision-making process. With time and purposeful work, your short game will become a scoring weapon rather than a source of frustration. Get out there, experiment with different clubs and trajectories, and watch those up-and-down percentages climb.